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Prices for hardwood and softwood floor installation

Installation of hardwood or softwood floors 1 inch ¾ raw or prefinished *paper and materials not included Starting from 3,95 $ per square foot
Installation of hardwood or softwood floors 2 ¼ inches unfinished or prefinished *paper and materials not included Starting from 3,45 $ per square foot
Installation of hardwood or softwood floors 3 ¼ inches unfinished or prefinished *paper and materials not included Starting from 2,95 $ per square foot
Installation of hardwood or softwood floors 4 ¼ inches unfinished or prefinished *paper and materials not included Starting from 2,95 $ per square foot
Installation of hardwood or softwood floors, glued and nailed – supplement Starting from 1.25 $ per square foot
Installation of parquet flooring *glue and materials not included Starting from 3,50 $ per square foot
Installation of floating floors *membrane and materials not included Starting from 2,50 $ per square foot
Installation of double-glued engineered floors *glue and materials not included Starting from 4,50 $ per square foot
Installation of single-glue engineered floors *glue and materials not included Starting from 3,25 $ per square foot
Installation of herringbone floors *glue and materials not included Starting from 10,00 $ per square foot
Installation of plywood (plywood) *glue and materials not included Starting from 2,50 $ per square foot
Landing Nose Installation *glue and materials not included Starting from 15,00 $ per linear foot
Installation of insulating membranes *glue and materials not included Starting from 0,75 $ per square foot
Screwing the subfloor Starting from 1,00 $ per square foot
Cut the bottom of an MDF door Starting from 50 $ each
Cut the bottom of a solid wood door Starting from 95 $ each
Hourly rate for work not included 95 $/hour

Woodwork, cutting and finishing

Removing and reinstalling old baseboards Starting from 5,00 $ per linear foot
Installation of quarter rounds Starting from 2,50 $ per linear foot
Installation of door frames Starting from 4,00 $ per linear foot
Installation of new baseboards Starting from 4,00 $ per linear foot
Thresholds, transition moldings and reducers Starting from 15 $ per linear foot
Installation of recessed ventilation hatches Starting from 50 $ each
Belt inserted into the floor Starting from 20 $ per linear foot
Installation of access hatches Starting from 250 $ each
Price work not included 95 $/hour

Installing a hardwood floor

Before installing your hardwood floor, you first have to verify that the subfloor is wood, since wood flooring can’t be laid directly on cement or concrete.

In the case of a building or a house that’s currently under construction, the installation of a hardwood floor must be done during the final phase of the work – that is to say, the doors and windows must be installed and the foundations must be dry for a minimum of two months. Otherwise, the risk of instability during and after the installation of your floor would be considerable.

Before laying a floor, you have to make sure that the concrete work, plumbing, plastering, and painting have all been finished and that the house has had an internal climate control system for at least a week or two. This should allow you to preserve good climatic conditions. It will thereby be ensured that you’ll carry out the floor installation in controlled conditions. Laying hardwood in the basement is not recommended.

Hardwood shouldn’t be installed if there is debris, residue, construction materials, or other waste on the subfloor that could adversely affect its realization.

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Check the humidity in the wood before installing your floor

Before installing your hardwood floor, you have to measure the humidity contained in the subfloor to make sure it is less than 12%. The difference between the wood that makes up the floor and the subfloor materials should not exceed 4%. The internal humidity level of the hardwood floor should be somewhere between 6 and 9%.

For strips over 4 inches wide, the floor installer must make sure that the difference between the subfloor and the hardwood floor does not exceed 2% humidity.

*When you begin the installation, you first have to choose the slats that you want to use according to your criteria and your preferences. You also have to calculate an additional provision of hardwood slats that may vary from 3 to 5 percent. If a strip has visible defects, don’t install it.

*Before starting the hardwood floor installation, we recommend ensuring the stability of the interior climate by maintaining an approximate temperature of 20 degrees Celsius and a humidity level of between 40 and 55%.

Rules for the hardwood floor installer

In general, we recommend following these guidelines before installing your hardwood floor:

  • · Make sure that the subfloor respects the code from the Régie du Bâtiment du Québec (RBQ).
  • · Make sure that the subfloor was securely attached with floor screws.
  • · Make sure beforehand that the subfloor has no irregularities. The subfloor must not exhibit a drop-off of more than 3/16 of an inch over a distance of 6 feet.
  • · Make sure that the surface is clean and free of all debris or residue from the building materials.
  • · Make sure that the joists are in good condition.
  • · Attach a non-tarred felt paper to the entire surface of the subfloor.
  • · Immediately remove damaged strips, since these will affect the appearance of the floor and may cause it to creak.
  • · Attach the finishing trim to the wall and not to the floor, since this will impede the back-and-forth movements of the floor.
  • · Respect the spaces provided for the expansion joints.
  • · Work with clean and appropriate tools.

*We recommend covering your subfloor with a 15-lb. tar paper or a wax paper designed for this purpose. You should choose at least 3 boxes of hardwood flooring and do the installation from these 3 boxes in order to ensure that the installation is uniform. The installation of the floor should be done at 90 or 45 degrees with respect to the joists.
*Don’t forget to use a rubber mallet or a tapping block to do the installation.

How to establish your starting line before beginning your installation

First, make marks on the walls to determine the position of the floor joists. Start your first row by choosing the longest wall that is also perpendicular to the joists.

At the end of each wall, measure the width of one floorboard and add ¾ of an inch to leave an expansion joint. To do this, trace a line with the help of a string that will serve as your guide. This line must be parallel to the starting wall and have a distance equivalent to one wooden slat plus the expansion joint.

Insert the nails at the ends of the marks and run a line between them to establish the line for your first row.

*Note: Use spacer blocks or wedges to create the expansion spacing. The expansion joint will let the wood expand and contract according to the changing climate.

How to lay your first row

Use your starting line to begin your installation. The female side must face the wall.

Lay the first wooden slat along the starting line that you set up earlier. Insert the flooring nails diagonally on the male part and in a straight line on top of the floor. Make sure the nails are hidden once the baseboards have been installed. The next strip should be attached along the starting line. The boards must be nailed moving towards the side wall until it is reached.

The slats must be nailed every 6 to 8 inches, with a minimum of 2 nails per slat.

*Note: The first 2 rows must be nailed by hand. Use a pneumatic nail gun to install the floor. Nail at a distance not exceeding 2 inches from the ends of the slat.

How to install the additional rows

Position the first strip in the next row by placing the end of it against a ¼-inch wedge. Drill starter holes in the tongues, then plant and mill through the tongues to attach the slats.

To install the second or third row, there will be enough space between the wall and the strip so that you can use a pneumatic nail gun for the edges. Position the nail gun so that it nails a nail into the tongue of the strip, and hit it with a mallet so that it goes through the wood.

*Always leave a ¼-inch expansion joint between the end of the strip and the side wall.

How to lay the last row of your floor

As you approach the wall at the far end of the room, it will be difficult to use the edge nail gun. Install the last row and nail it with a pneumatic finishing nail gun. Start by drilling starter holes for nailing on the surface of the floor, but don’t nail them before placing all the strips.

*You can use transition moldings whenever you need to change the direction of your slats.